Arcade Part Sales

Here are various replacement and upgrade boards that I've manufactured in the process of fixing my games. Note that I hand-assemble boards before shipping them out and do not keep a large stock of pre-assembled boards so there will be a few weeks delay between when you order something and when you receive it. Note that I currently only ship to the United States as shipping outside of the country has become prohibitively difficult. If you are interested in purchasing something here send me an email at Discounts are available when ordering quantities of a particular board.

New Net City Monitor Remote Board

$35 shipped in the United States.
ROHS verified.

New Net City Monitor Remote Board

Developed and open-sourced by CodeCrank, this board replaces the one that comes stock with a NNC cabinet for calibrating your monitor. This board should work with all Toshiba perfect flat monitors with the models PD-1843, PB-9929, and PD2367 imprinted on the main chassis board. With the NNC remote board installed you can access the factory menus for individual color bias and gain as well as advanced geometry settings such as linearity. All original functionality is preserved and it is a drop-in replacement for the original board.

New Net City Monitor Remote Board assembly location

In order to install this board, you will need to remove the front shroud of your NNC. This is the plastic surrounding the monitor. There are several videos online showing how to do this, but its fairly easy to do without a video if you follow these instructions:

  1. On the front of the shroud surrounding the monitor, there are four covers hiding four bolts, two on each side of the monitor. Remove the covers by sliding them forward towards you using a small flathead screwdriver.
  2. Unscrew the four bolts revealed by removing the covers. Do not attempt to remove the shroud yet.
  3. Open the control panel using the lock on the left underside of the control panel.
  4. Remove the two smaller screws found at the bottom of the shroud, one each on the left and right.
  5. The shroud should now lift up and out forwards towards you. Sometimes it can pinch the marquee holder. If it does this, gently rock it out being careful not to snap the plastic.
  6. You should have access to the original remote board (circled in the photo to the right). Unscrew it from the metal frame, unplug it and plug the new remote board.
  7. Reassemble the cabinet in the reverse order. Before reassembling its a good idea to test the remote board to be sure you connected everything right.

SEGA 839-1187 Reproduction Board

$55 shipped in the United States.
Not ROHS due to leaded solder used in assembly.

SEGA 839-1187 Reproduction Board

This board is an exact reproduction of the original SEGA 839-1187 analog amp board which is found in several Naomi-era analog games. Most notably found inside the panel for Monkey Ball, this also works inside a Sega Strike Fighter or Planet Harriers setup. As an exact reproduction, it is a drop-in replacement for a failed board or it can be used to construct a setup from scratch. To install this into an existing panel with a failed board, simply unplug the original and plug this in instead. Some original boards came with plastic stand-offs. Feel free to reuse those on this board instead! If you are building a panel from scratch, check out my page on for how to wire up the joystick to this board as well as make a harness to plug into a NNC.

BeatmaniaIII Inverter Conversion Board

$25 shipped for a board in the United States.
$40 shipped for a pair of boards in the United States.
ROHS verified.

BeatmaniaIII Inverter Conversion BoardBeatmaniaIII Inverter Conversion Board installed in a speaker setup

This board allows you to modify a BeatmaniaIII speaker stack to replace a broken neon inverter with an off-the-shelf 6KV inverter. The original neons in BeatmaniaIII used a proprietary neon inverter with dimmable controls. While I have not figured out how to build a dimmable neon inverter yet, I have developed this board which converts the signal coming into the speaker from a dimming signal to an on/off signal capable of feeding a solid state AC relay. With this board, a 5V power supply, a solid state relay and a neon inverter you can restore some functionality back to the neons in a BeatmaniaIII which have previously died. For a brief demonstration video, have a look here.

The list of needed parts per-speaker is as follows:

  • This BeatmaniaIII conversion board.
  • A solid state AC relay (SSR), such as the SSR-40DA. Any relay that takes 3 or more volts to activate and can switch 110V AC will do.
  • A 5V switching mode power supply. Hobby power supplies can be found on several popular shopping sites.
  • A 6KV 30ma neon inverter. I am fairly certain that larger inverters will do fine, but this is what has worked for me.
  • Soldering iron, solder, a short length of 14 gauge wire for the AC section and heat shrink tubing.

Installation requires the ability to solder and some heat-shrink tubing. We will reuse the wiring from the original neon transformer both for the banana plugs that connect to the neons as well as the AC connector to the cabinet itself and the signal wires for the controller. To prepare the board to be installed in the cabinet do the following.

  1. Snip off the small two-wire connector (red and black wires) coming from the original neon transformer. Make sure to leave enough wire to solder the connector to the board.
  2. Solder the red wire from the connector to the SGN + hole on the board. Solder the black wire from teh connector to the SGN - hole on the board.
  3. If done right, the connector should snap into the blue and black wire pair that goes down to the bottom of the speaker assembly.
  4. Wire the PWR + wire to the +V side of a 5V power supply. Wire the PWR - wire to the -V or GND side of the same 5V power supply.
  5. Wire the SSR + wire to the + input of the solid state relay, and the SSR - wire to the - input of the solod state relay.

Now that the board has been wired into place, you will need to connect the SSR, 5V power supply and the neon transformer to the AC wires present inside the speaker assembly, as follows.

  1. Snip off the larger two-wire connector (black and white wires) coming from the original neon transformer. The black wire on this is the hot AC wire and the white wire is the neutral AC wire.
  2. The neutral wire (white) should be wired to the neutral terminal on the power supply as well as the neutral AC wire of the replacement transformer. Note that in some cases your neon transformer will not make a distinction between hot and neutral wires. In this case, pick one as it does not matter.
  3. The hot wire (black) should be wired to the line terminal on the power supply as well as one of the AC terminals on the solid state relay. It does not matter which of the two AC terminals on the SSR you choose as they are bidrections.
  4. The hot wire from the replacement transformer should be wired to the other AC terminal on the solid state relay.

Speaker Wiring Diagram

If you did this correctly, your setup should look similar to the diagram above on the right. The hot (black) wire should feed to one of the SSR inputs as well as the line terminal on your power supply. The neutral (white) wire should feed to the neutral wire of your replacement neon rtansformer as well as to the neutral input of your power supply. Finally, the hot wire of the replacement neon transformer should be connected to the other SSR input. In this way, the AC power can be used by the 5V power supply to give constant power to the controller board, and the SSR can be used by the controller board to selectively give AC power to the replacement neon transformer.

Finally, you will need to reuse the banana plugs on the old neon transformer to make a set of wiring harnesses for the neons themselves to connect to the new neon transformer.

  1. Snip all of the banana plugs coming off of the old transformer as close as you can to the transformer. You'll want to have the extra length when you wire everything up in a little bit.
  2. Three sets of these wires should be soldered to each other, making three wires with a banana plug on each end. Make sure to use a generous amount of heat shrink as these wires are VERY high voltage. At least an inch on each side of the solder joint should do.
  3. The final set should be soldered to the neon transformer so that it has a pair of banana plugs. The output from the neon transformer has no polarity so just make sure you have one banana plug soldered to each wire. Again, make sure to use at least an inch of heat shrink tubing on each side of the solder joint.
  4. Now, connect the neons in series to one another, running one banana plug from the new transformer to the top neon and one to the bottom neon, and connecting the rest using the two-ended wires you've made.

If you've connected everything correctly, go into the test menu of the game and turn on the neons by increasing the neon light counter in the lights test menu. The neons should turn on at value 32 and be completely off at value 31. If they are turn on too early or too late or they are flickering on one particular value, adjust the +5V trim potentiometer on your power supply until the neons behave correctly. If the neons don't work at all, make sure that you haven't reversed the two 2x3 plugs at the bottom of the speaker cavity. One controls the annoying incandescent spot lights and the other supplies constant power for use by the neon inverter. If the neons still don't work, remember that there is an interlock requiring the cover to be placed back on the speaker and screwed down before the game will let the neons activate. This is for safety as the neons are very high voltage. Now, you're set to play the game!

The Grid Replacement Keypad

$40 shipped in the United States.
$110 for a 3-set shipped in the United States.
$200 for a 6-set shipped in the United States.
ROHS verified.

The Grid Replacement Keypad

This board is a replacement PIN pad circuit board which replaces the terrible bubble contact keys most famously used in The Grid from Midway. With this board you can upgrade your PIN pad to mechanical keys while still retaining the original keypad housing and feel. If your The Grid cabinet works but you have a hard time entering your PIN for character lookup and cheat codes then this board will fix your problem. It is a drop-in replacement electrically but you will have to modify the plastic keypad housing in order to use it. This board will replace any AP-207WP PIN pad, but it was designed specifically for The Grid. Take it from me, its worth it! If you don't believe me, check out this demonstration video!

The Grid Replacement Keypad disassemblyThe Grid Replacement Keypad reassembly

Installation of this board is fairly simple. You can do this installation safely with the cabinet powered on. I do this in order to test my installation before closing the control panel.

  1. First, open the top coin door and reach up into the cabinet. There are two metal snap locks holding the control panel closed, located on the left and the right. Flip them up towards the control panel to disengage them.
  2. Now, with the control panel swung open, remove the existing PIN pad. It is held in by four miniscule nuts. I suggest using a needle-nose pliars to loosen the nuts and then unscrewing them the rest of the way with your finger. These nuts are very easy to lose, so be careful when removing them.
  3. Once you get the keypad out, gently pry the circuit board away from the housing with the PIN pad facing down to avoid spilling the keys everywhere. This might snap some of the plastic tabs that hold the housing to the circuit board, but that's okay.
  4. Clean any remaining plastic tabs that are left using a hobby knife. You will want to gently cut them away so that the bottom side of the housing is flat. Have a look at the first photo on the right for an example.
  5. Now, mate the housing to the new board by lining up the circuit board with the top of the plastic housing assembly. The cork material on the board should make contact with the plastic rim that you just cleaned. Have a look at the second photo on the right for an example. Make sure you don't accidentally assemble the PIN pad upside down! Do not remove the rubber insert as we will continue using it as a spill guard to ensure no liquid gets onto the new board and as a spacer to keep the keys from sitting too recessed in the housing.
  6. Finally, reinstall the assembly into the control panel of your The Grid cabinet using the original nuts to secure it tightly. Don't be afraid to snug up the nuts as the cork material can take some compression.
  7. Plug the wires into the new circuit board and test it out in the test menu. You should be good to go!

RGBHV Video Splitter Board

$80 shipped in the United States.
ROHS verified.

RGBHV Video Splitter Board

Takes any RGB video source and makes a one-to-one buffered copy of the video signal suitable for feeding to a capture card or second display. Video duplication is done in the analog domain and introduces zero lag to the original or buffered video signals. Does not modify the source signal in any way, so it allows you to capture VGA, JAMMA and SCART signals while continuing to use your original monitor. When splitting VGA signals the board is plug-and-play, transparently passes EDID through to the original monitor and can even power itself from pin 9 of compatible video cards. When splitting non-standard video signals such as JAMMA video in arcades you can use the built-in contrast and individual color gains to bring an overly bright picture down to VGA-level for safe capture. Designed with the OSSC in mind and is pin-compatible with AV3 when capturing both VGA and JAMMA video. For more information, a complete feature list and usage instructions, please see the manual!